To be honest, little had I thought that the cuisine would be the highlight of my visit to Vadodara. I was familiar with the city, for it had a royal past, is home to the stunning Laxmi Vilas Palace, and stands as the cultural hub of Gujarat.
I intended to choose one of the well-located hotels in Vadodara and spend my time admiring the city’s history, touring museums, and taking walks through historic neighbourhoods. However, Vadodara subtly directed me through the day between my first breakfast and my final evening snack.
I started organising my days according to what I would eat next. Here’s how I fell in love with the city’s cuisine.
It started with a proper Gujarati breakfast
I didn’t start my first morning in Vadodara with toast or cereal. It was different. The scent of freshly made fafda, crispy ganthiya, soft khaman, and steaming cups of chai filled the air. Even though I had previously eaten these dishes, they tasted different here. Maybe it was because they were prepared fresh each morning. Or it was because they were served the way the locals like them, with lots of conversation, tangy chutneys, and fried green chillies.
Also, on Dussehra, the famous fafda and jalebi combination is in rage and families from all over Gujarat line up outside candy stores early in the morning to celebrate the custom together.
Then came Sev Usal—A dish I didn’t know I needed
Sev Usal is the dish for which I would gladly return to Vadodara. It appears straightforward at first glance. A fiery white pea curry with lots of crispy sev, onions, coriander, and a squeeze of lemon on top. However, the first bite tells you why it’s one of Vadodara’s signature street foods.
Every street vendor seems to have their own version of this spicy, tangy, crunchy, and comforting dish. Don’t be shocked if you get five different answers when you ask a local where to find the best Sev Usal. Everyone has a favourite.
I finally understood why people talk about Gujarati thalis
I had heard that you should always try a traditional Gujarati thali before leaving the state. I now understand why. A good thali is an experience rather than a single dish. Bowls of dal, kadhi, seasonal vegetables, farsan, rotis, puris, rice, pickles, chutneys, papad, and desserts keep on piling up on the table as servers keep asking if you’d like another serving.
I returned to street food every evening
I soon discovered that Vadodara gets incredibly vibrant after dusk. Families, students, and groups of friends start to swarm the city’s food streets in search of their preferred evening snack.
I discovered dabeli, buttery pav bhaji, spicy vadapav, crisp bhajiya, and a plethora of sandwiches with distinctly Gujarati twists there. Eating wasn’t the only thing. Talking with regular customers and watching vendors prepare everything fresh were additional aspects of the experience.
I couldn’t resist the sweets
No matter how content I was, dessert was always on the table. In addition to traditional sweets like Mohanthal, Basundi, Shrikhand, and Sutarfeni, many sweet shops in Vadodara offer rich seasonal treats.
Some recipes have been handed down through the generations. Some have gained popularity in the community over many years. The variety is even more striking when you visit during holidays like Diwali or Navratri. It’s nearly impossible to pass a traditional candy store without pausing.
The city’s markets smelled like fresh snacks
Vadodara’s local markets were an experience, not just shopping. Another food stand tempted me to stop every few steps. Even a stroll became a culinary journey thanks to freshly fried kachoris, crispy patra, spicy lilva kachori in the winter, roasted peanuts, sugarcane juice, and vibrant seasonal fruits.
Final thoughts
I arrived in Vadodara expecting to remember its palaces, museums, and beautiful architecture. I left thinking about Sev Usal, Gujarati thalis, early morning fafda, evening street food, and the warmth with which every meal was served.
The city’s attractions certainly impressed me, but it was the food that made the strongest connection. That’s because sometimes you don’t truly discover a place through its monuments. You discover it one delicious meal at a time—and Vadodara is a city that makes not just every meal but every bite worth remembering.
